The previous session on Saturday had enough current to push me out of position by the time the next set arrived. So I urgently needed to work out a method of staying in the right place way out here.
Paddle out until you are where you want to be in relation to the breaking wave.
Look straight down into the water and note the pattern on the bottom, especially the bright white blotches (could be quartz).
Stay on top of that pattern for as long as it takes for the next wave the right shape and size to come through.
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